Albert mcdowell



4 Sheets-Sheet l.

(No Model.)

A. MGDOWELL. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR` DRAFTING GARMENTS. N0. 34z,216.

Patented Mey 1,8', 1886..

- u INVENTOR- WITNESSES:

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N PETERS. Plmwmamgnphcr, wnhmglun. D.`c.

2., t., e e h s .W e e h S 4 L L E O D 0 M An .u d 0 M 0 mw ADJUSTABLEPATTERN FOB. DRAFTING GARMENTS.`

Patented May 18, 1886.

| NVE NTO R By his .tt0rneys,

WITNESSES:

N PETERS. Pholoiinwgmplwr. washingmn. D. C.

4 sheets-sheet s.

(No Model.)

J,LMQDOWBLL. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN POR DRAFTING GARMENTS. No, 342,216.

Patented Mey 18, 1886.

A, INVENTOR:

" a $10' Mba,

By his Attorneys, ma, 054W 6M S E S S E N W W N. Patins mxu-Limegmwu,wamingwmnc (No Model.) 4 sheets-sheet 4. y

A. MGDOWELL. A ADJUSTABLE PATTERN TOR DRAPTING GARMBNTS.

No. 342,216. Patented Maly `18, 1886.

|NVENTOR' WITN ESSESZ By his .flttameys,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

A LBERT MCDOVELL, OF NEVT YORK, N. Y.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SFECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 342,216, dated May 18,1886.

Serial No. 1T8 l17.

Application filed July 30, 1885.

To all whom. t may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT MoDowELL, a citizen of the United Statesand aresident of the city, county, and State of New York, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for DraftingGarments, of which the following is a specification.

My invent-ion relates to that class of patterns which are made of partsadj ustably con nected together, whereby the pattern may be set oradjusted to the measures taken and the parts then clamped together.vThen so set, the material or paper patterns may be outlined or markedby following the outlines of the adjustable pattern.

In order to facilitate the setting of the pattern to the measures, andto avoid, as far as possible, any reliance on thejudgment of theoperator in making allowances, Ste., such patterns are usually providedwith scales whereby the parts may be adjusted to the measures taken. Apattern of this general character, and especially designed for cuttingout the upper parts of ladies dresses is shown in my Patent No. 310,297,of January 6, 1885. My present invention is an improvement thereon.

The objects of my present invention are, in general, to provide for abetter adjustment of the parts of the pattern; to remove non-essentialand extraneous parts which only add to the weight and cumbersomecharacter of the pattern; to provide a parallel motion or adjustment forthe darts, whereby whatever may be the length or width of the darts thesanne relative proportions as to length will be maintained; also,toavoid the complexity and waste of material incident to the formation ofthe hip-dart,which I now accomplish by making aseparate pattern for theunder-arm piece, thus making a fonrpart pattern for the body or waist ofthe dress or other garment. I also provide a more perfect adjustmentbetween y the curves of the side body and those of the back or backbody, and have made chaugesin the side-body pattern,whereby I am enabledto place the material for the skirt just at the point needed to suitchanges of fashion. I also add a pattern for the sleeve, the novelcharacteristics of which will be hereinafter fully set forth.

(No model In the drawings which serve to illustrate my invention, Figurel represents the pattern for the front ofthe body; and Fig.2 representsthe pattern for the under-arm piece, now constructed separate from thefront pattern. Fig. 3 represents the pattern for the side body,and Fig'.4 the pattern for the back of the body. Each of these represents onehalf, and when applied to folded material serves to determine thecontour of the two corresponding pieces of the fabric. All the views areface views and show the parts of the patterns set to corre spend witheach other and to apredetermined measure. Figs. l, 2, 3, and 4represent, respectively, pieces of fabric eut from the pattern shown inFigs. l, 2, 3, and 4, but on a reduced scale, for economy of space.Figs. 5 and 6 represent the dress-body made up from these pieces, Fig. 5being a front view and Fig. 6 a back View. Fig. 7 represents theadjustable'pattern for the sleeve, the view being a face view, and onthe same scale as Figs. l, 2, 3, and 4. Figs. 7L and 7" represent thewide and narrow parts of the sleeve out from this pattern, but on areduced scale for economy of space. Figs. 7c and 7d illustrate moditiedconstructions of the sleeve-pattern, which will be hereinafterdescribed.

My pattern is usually made from sheet metal, but other materials may beemployed. rlhose plates forming the outline where seams are required areof the proper width to allow for the seam; therefore the outer margin,generally speaking, marks the cutting-line and the inner margin the seamor sewing line.

The parts are connected together in three ways-namely, by rivets orintegrally, which, for convenience, I will characterize by the wordsrigidly connected,7 by a' hinge rivet or stud to form a joint orarticulation, which I will characterize as hinged, and by slots andrivets or screws, so that the plates are at liberty to slide on eachother for purposes of adjustment, which I will characterize by thesingle word connected77 Referring to Fig. 1, plates A and A* are rigidlyconnected, the latter standing at right angles to the former. Plate A2is connected to A' below, and plate A to A above. The outer edges ofplates A', A2, and A:5 form the front line of the pattern, usually aboutone roc and one-half inch from the edge of the fabric, as indicated bythe dottcdline a in Fig. 1% This line may be curved outwardly, ifdesired; but this slight curvature will usually be allowedbytheoperator. In mypresentinvention I omit the outer plaies fordetermining the distance the pattern is to be set from the edge of thematerial as cumbersome and unnecessary. Plate A5 is connected to A4, andforms with the latter a part ofthe neck-curve. A5 is hinged to A1 andAJ'is connected to A5, the two forming the shape of the shoulder. AT ishinged to A6 and connected to A5, the two forming part of the arnrhole.A5 is usually hinged to A9, which is connected to Adi, the branch fromA. Ail: and A9 give the width of the front, and are usually providedwith a scale, as shown. A10 is hinged to A and connected to A11. A10 andA11 form the pattern for the under-arm seam. These are usually providedwith a scale. A1`z is adjustably hinged to A11 and connected to A15. A12and A15- form the waistline, and A12 is usually provided with scales, asshown. In order to furnish a pattern for the upper or hip port-ion oftheskirt, I usually add the parts A15 and A11". Plate A15 is hinged toA11,and adjustably hinged to A15atits lower end and to A1`Zat its upperend. A1 is hinged to the downward prolongation of A?. I do not considerthis skirt portion an essential partof my pattern. A11 is an L-shapedplate connected at c to A and at a* to A Its longer transverse branchstands at a fixed angle with plates A and Ait, and it has an adjustmentup and down parallel to A. Z are the dart` plates. In themselves theypresent no novelty over the dart plates shown in my former patent. Z,Z2, Z, and Z1 form the first dart. Z5, Z5, Z1, and Z8 form the seconddart. These plates are connected to A11 at the top and to A1;1 at thebottom. IThe adjustment of the plate A1" up or down varies the lengthsof the darts, but the difference in their lengths remains always thesame. On A15, I usually place a dartsscale, as shown.

The method of using the front body portion is so similar to thatdescribed in my former patent that a detailed description further thangiven above will not be required.

Referring to the under-arm pattern, Fig. 2, plate B is rigidly connectedto B2. is con- Y nectedto B and hinged to B". B* is connected to B5, andB5 is adjustably connected to B5. B6 is rigidly connected to B5, whichlatter is connected to B2. B and B5 are usually provided with scales, asshown. B7 is generally rigidly connected to B5 and B5. The plates B3,B5, and B1 when so connected may as well be integral, except for economyof construction. B is hinged to B1 and is connected to B5. B1 is hingedto B5. B5, B5, and B1) form the pattern for the skirt portion. Vhen thisunderarm pattern is laid on the fabric,the operator marks both the innerand outer edges of the plates B5, B5, and B1, the outer being thecutting-line and the inner the sewing-line of the under-arm seam. Hemarks both the inner and outer edges of plates B4, B5, and B, toindicate the cutting and sewing lines of the side seam which joins theunder arm piece to the side body. The outer margins ot' B and B* formpart ofthe armhole-eurve, and thelower edge of B the waistlinc. It willbe understood that those edges of the pieces cut by the plates A10, A11,and A15 in Fig. l and B2, B5, and BT in Fig. 2 arejoined together inmaking the garment, and the hip-dart is thus formed. Vhere the skirt isabbreviated,as in a basque or sack, the under-arm piece may be cutindependently ofthe front and with considerable economy. -In cuttingthis piece the plate B6 is laid properly with the grain or ligure of thefabric. In this pattern for the under-arm piece I have shown the platesB5?, B5, B5, and B constructed to be moved in and out along plates B',B5, and B5, and Bil as hinged toB", but it is obvious that thisarrangement might be reversed. The plates B, B5, and B5 might beattached to B1, B5, and B9, and the plates B`, B5, and BT be mademovable out and in.

Referring to the side-body pattern, Fig. 3, plate 0 has a branch, 0*. 0is connected to 05. 05 and 0 arejoined to 01. 07 is hinged to 0". 05 isadjustably connected to 01 and hinged to 01, which latter is adjust-ablyeonnected to 05. At its upper end 04r is connected to 05, which latteris adjustably connected to 0*. 0 is a brace connecting 05 to 015. I donot consider this as an essential feature. Other equivalent means may besubstituted for it. Scales are usually employed on the plates 0', 0*,05, 05, and 05, as shown.

Fig. Saillustrates the application of thesidebody pattern. Lines drawnat the inner edges of all the plates,except 05 a-nd 07,give thesewing-lines indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 35. The lower edge ot' 05is the waist-line. The seam-line along the inner edges of plates C', 02,and 05,]'oins the seam-line along the inner edges of plates B, B5, andBof Fig. 2. The adjustment of plate 05 and 0*, the hinging of the plate0s at the waist-line, and the staying of the plates 05 and 0, asdescribed, possess important advantages in enabling the operator to keepthe top of the side body ofthe proper Width at the armhole, and toadjust the dress material below the waist to suit the bustle or placethe fullness where it is required.

Referring to Fig. 4, which shows the pattern for the back or back body,D is plate provided With a branch, Dit, riveted to it or formed integralwith it. Plate D2 is 'connected to D. This plate D has a curved branch,which is adjustably connected to D5. D3 is connected to D, which latteris adj ustably connected to the upper end of a curved plate, D5. D5 ishinged to D15,which is connected to the branch plate D555. DT isadjust-ably connected to the lower end of D5, and is connected to DS,and DS is adjustably hinged to Ditch, which latter is a branch h'xedrigidly to D5,or forming a part thereof. D9 is connected to D2. Dtti* isalso a IIS partofD,beingusuallyformedintegrally therewith to extend thepattern below the waist-line,

which is indicated by the lower edge of DW.

D10 is hinged to Dif/1:* and is adjustably connected to Du, and thislatter is hinged to Ds and adj ustably connected to Dwi. The curvedbranch of D,(which forms part of the pattern for the neckcurve,) plateD", the curved plate D?, (which forms part of the pattern for thearni-hole,) plate D, plate Dl, plate D", plate DW, and plate D areusually provided with scales, as shown. The plates C* on the pattern forthe side body, Fig. 3, and the plate D5 on the pattern for the backbody, Fig. 4, each form a part of the armhole-curve. and each isprovided with a.scale,arI shown. Now, when the measure is taken and seton these scales, the portion of the armhole cut by the said plates Willbe of the proper length. The scales are so proportioned to eachother, aswill be well understood, that this result will be effected. The parts ofthis back-body pattern are adjusted and set to the measures, and thepiece cut therefrom will take the form shown in Fig. 4, the dotted linesin which indicate the sewing'lines. The sewing-line at the center of theback from the waist-line up will usuallyjoin the line drawn along theinner edge of D2 at Dek, depending somewhat on the fullness required inthe back. The length of the skirt below the waist-line will bedetermined by fashion. The plates Du and Diff* extend down below thewaistline to provide for the necessary fullness for the skirt or basque.By providing an adjust-able connection where the lower end of D joinsthe upper end of DT the operator is enabled to place the top of theback-curve higher or lower, as fashion or the figure may require. Thesewing-line; marked by plates Dl, D8, and D, in Fig. 4, joins the linemarked by plates C", 0*, and Gf, iu Fig. 3. The sewing-line marked bythe inner edges of plates D', D2, D, and

D* I joins the corresponding line on the other half ot' the back. Thesewing-line marked by plates D3 and D" joins the line marked by theplates A5 and Ain Fig. l, forming the shoul der-seam.

These four patterns (seen in Figs. l, 2, 8, and 4) form the patterns forthe entire body or waist of the dress, except the sleeves; l will nowdescribe the sleeve-pattern, referring to Fig. 7. The plates F/and Elare connected and control the size ofthe sleeve at the wrist. The platesE3 and E are connected and control the size ofthe sleeve at the elbow.E5 is rigidly connected to EL ate and is connected to FN. E5 and Econtrol the length of the sleeve from armhole to elbow on the outsideofthe arm. ET and E8 are rigidly connected to E. El and E8 control theWidth of the upper and under pieces of the sleeve at the arnihole. Theupper piece, e', Fig 7, is generally wider than the under piece, e2,Fig. 7b, and the difference 65 in their width varies with the fashion.Hereinafter I will explain how this difference is effected with thepatterns. E is rigidly connected to E and controls the highest point ofthe curve in the upper part ofthe sleeve at the arinhole. El0 is rigidlyconnected to E6 and is connected to E", which latter is joined to E. Eland E control the size of the sleeve at the armhcle. ElAl is connectedto E, which latter is rigidly joined to E3. IEu is joined to or E orboth, as desired, and E15 is connected to E at one end and rigidlyconnected to E. E, El, E, and E15 give the shape of the inside of thesleeve and the sewing-line for same, and also control the curve of thesleeve.' The rigid connection of E to E15 gives the angle at thewrist-end of the sleeve. The plate El is adjustahly connect-ed to El andconnected also to E, which latter is adjustahly connected to E andhinged to E13. E18 is connected to Em and adjustably connected to 43T.These plates El E E1S El form the outer contour from the hand to thearnihole of the larger or upper piece, e', ofthe sleeve and theontersewing-line. Plate Emis adjustably connected to E and connected toE. This latter is adjustably connected to E4 and hinged to l-5. Thislatter is connected to E, which in tuln is adjustably connected to El.These plates Ei, E, EQ, and EN form the outer contour from wrist toarinhole of the smaller 9 or lower piece, e`', of the sleeve and theouter sewingline of this piece. The convex armhole curve at the end ofpiece e', Fig. 7, is formed by the plates El, E2, and E. E20 is a curvedand slotted plate hinged to E at one end and adj ustably connected toplates E and E. Plate E21 is adjnstably connected to El' and E'lat oneend, and has a slotted connection at its other end at the junction ofEl1 and E. The curved plate E is hinged at one end to the end of El, andhas a slotted connection at the -unction of )lates E and E at the sameJoint .l l

that E21 is connected therewith. Scales are usually provided on E. E2,E, E", El, E, E, and Ell. Where the measure is taken from theinside ofthe arm such scales may also be provided on plates E and E.

In cutting out a sleeve with one part wider than the other, asindicatedin Figs. 7 and 7", it will be understood that in order to maintai'n theproper measure, that which is taken from the width of one piece must beadded to the other. Therefore l usually make the scales c:i e4 e5 e6half-size, and set the connected plates forming the exterior outlines ofthe pieces e e2 accordingly-that is to say, in theexample plates E andEl are set at l l on opposite sides of the Zero-mark on t-hedifferential wristscale et, plates E and E25 at 2 2 on opposite sidesofthe zeroanarh on the differential elbow-scale e, and plates El and Ez3at 6 and 6, respectively, on the differential scales e5 aude. at thearmhole. This gives a difference of six inches at the armhole, twoinches at the elbow, and one inch at the wrist. The adjust- IOO IIO

' plate E tothe armhole size along the scale Y ure, and enables theoperator'to draft any of Y.

ments at e3, 6*, e5, and c may be termed the l fashion adjustments, asthey are only used to govern the style of the sleeve and have nothing todo with its size or proportion. On plate E is the wrist-scale. On plateE is the elbow-scale, and on plate E is the armholescale. It will beobvious that any predetermined difference in the width of the two piecesforming the sleeve as determined by fashion may be maintained withoutreference to the width or length of thesleeve, the former beingdetermined by the wrist, elbow, and armhole scalesjust mentioned, andthe latter by scales on plates E5 and E, The former gives the lengthfromiarmhole to elbow, and the latter from elbow to wrist.

The dotted lines in Fig. 7show the position ofthe parts when thedii'f'ereI/ice between the widths of thetwo parts of the sleeveisreduced to zero at the wrist, to one inch at the elbow, and to threeinches at the armhole. This difference in the widths of the two piecescarries the back seam farther under the arm, and also generallydetermines the gather or fullness at the elbow; but, as said before, ithas nothing to do with the size of the sleeve.

My pattern enables me to retain the size of the sleeve while I vary thedifference of width of its pieces, and also to maintain a certaindifference in the width of the pieces, and at the same time vary thesize. Thus any prevailing fashion as to width of the pieces may befollowedby setting the plates of the pattern properly to thedifferential scales, while the size may be varied for each sleeve cut,if necessary.

To get the high point at the armhole, adjust on plate E. The other endof plate E'21 will adjust itself at its connection with E, as will alsoplate E2z when plate E23 is moved.

This pattern enables the operator to draft the sleeve directly on thematerial, and gives both the cutting and sewing lines. It Varies thewidth of the two pieces at the wrist, elbow, and armhole independentlyand without disturbing the movements for the size of the sleeve. Itlocates the elbow-point by measthe ordinary styles of sleeves.

As I have described my pattern, it is adapted to work from alengtlrmeasure taken from the outside or back part of the arm, fromshoulder to elbow and from elbow to Wrist; but I can also take themeasure on theinside of the arm, and thus locate the elbow and get thelength of the sleeve. In this case I would use the scale on plate El2 tolocate the elbow, and the scale on plate E15 to complete 'the length.When the measurement is taken in this way, plates E5 and E may beomitted as non-essential, plates Emand ES being in this case united toplate El and plateEto Ew. Plate E11 should also in this case be rigidlyconnected to E, instead of hinged thereto.

In lieu of the construction shown in Fig. and with equally good results,I may attach E to E12 and E10 to E down nearer the elbow than as shown,these connected plates E10 and Eu passing under or over E23, as desired;and in this case I would connect Es rigidly to E6 at the same point thatET is connected to EG. This construction would enhance the symmeti-icalappearance of the rigidly-connected plates E, E?, and E". E might beinthis con struction secured rigidly to E, instead of EG. This modifiedconstruction is illustrated in Fig. 7. l

In Fig. 7 I have illustrated another slight modification, wherein platesE5 and E are omitted. Vhen using this construction, the length fromarmhole to elbow is taken on the inside of t-he arm, as I have beforestated it may be, and is set on the scale on plate E, Other slightchanges of construction are also illustrated in this view, namely: PlateE is rigidly attached to plate E12 and plate E21 is hinged to plate E,and is madein two parts to slide on each other. Plate Ilby has combinedwith it integrally plate El", and plate E is coupled at its oppositeends to this combined plate and to plaie E, and slides on them. Fig. 7dshows the modified construction clearly. The scales on plates E1l andEL2 are the same as in the other constructions. It will be observed thatthe construction is somewhat simpler than that shown in Fig. 7, asseveral plates are omitted; but it does not form so stift a pattern asthe former.

In the several iigures, x x, the., indicate clamping nuts and screws ortheirequivalents, which serve to prevent any sliding ot' the plates oneach other after the pattern is properl y set.

By reason of the improvements herein described, I am able to accomplishcertain desirable results not, so faras I am aware, heretoforeaccomplished. By separating the frontbody pattern from the pattern forthe underarm piece I am better enabled to follow the usual division ofthe waist as now made, which calls for two pieces, instead of one, inthe front; also, by reason of the improved construction of the patternfor the side body I am enabled to change the width at the armhole, andkeep the lines drawn by plates C and C)8 of a better shape below thewaist-line. Other advantages have been already setforth.

I do not wish to limit myself to the precise construction of the'patternherein described, as this may be varied to some extent without departingfrom my invention, as indicated above. Such slight changes come withinthe knowledge of those skilled in the art, and may be made by any one.

I am aware that it has been proposed to construct an adjustablesleeve-pattern with movable plates for outlining both pieces of thesleeve, but so far as I am aware I am the first to provide such apatternwith differential scales, as shown, and to so construct it that thestyle may be varied without changing thesize of the sleeve or losing itsmeasurements.

Having thus described my invention, I claiml. A pattern for drafting thebody of a dress or similar garment, constructed of four separate butinterdependent parts, namely: the pattern for the front body, thepattern for the under-arm piece, the pattern for the side body, and thepattern for the back body, each of said part patterns being constructedof connected plates and made adjustable as to size and form, andprovided with suitable scales, substantially as set forth, whereby eachmay be independently set to the measure taken and the parts of thegarment cut directly therefrom.

2. In an adjustable pattern for the front body, the combination, withthe slotted plates A', At, A2, and A", and the plates forming thedart-patterns,all constructed and arranged substantially as described,of the slotted angular plate A, connected to plates A' and A* and to thetops of the dart-plates, said angular plate AH being mounted to play onthe slotted plate A' and on a pin in plate Adi, substantially as shown,whereby its inclination is not altered by adjustment, substantially asand for the purposes set forth.

3. The pattern for the under arm piece, constructed separate from thepattern for the front body, and provided with the plates B7, B, and B,to form a pattern for the skirt below Vthe waist-line, substantially asset forth.

4. The patternfor the underarnl piece, provided with the slotted plateB', fixed rigidly to the plate B2, and the curved plate Bi", hinged totheplate B, and adj ustably connected to the plate B', to form thearmhole-pattern, substantially as set forth.

5. An adjustable pattern for the underarm piece, comprising the severalplates B', Bii, B2, B, B, B, and B, substantially as set forth. 1

6. An adjustable pattern for thc under-arm piece, comprising the platesB4 and B5 connected adj ustably to the plates B2 and Bis by slottedcross-plates, and a curved plate at the top to form part of thearmhole-curve, substantially as set forth.

7. The combination, with the adjustable pattern for the side bodyprovided .with a slotted connection between the plates C* and C, andwith a scale on plate 0*, of the adjustable pattern for the back bodyprovided with a slotted connection between the plates D'3 and D7, andwith a scale on plate Di", the said scales on plates C* and Di being soproportioned, as described, that when set to measure and the parts cutby the patterns the portion of the armhole eut by said plates C* and D5will be of the desired length, as set forth.

8. An adjustable pattern for the side body, comprising the plate C',provided with the slotted branch 0*, the plates GL', C", and C, theplate Ci, connected adjustably to branch 0*, the plate C,connectcd toplate C3, C5, and CS,

substantially as shown, the plate CS, connected adj ustably to plates G5and C7, substantially as set forth.

9. The combination, with the plates D', D?, D, Dz, D, Dirt, and DR ofthe back-body pattern, arranged and constructed substantially asdescribed,of the curved plate D5, slotted at both ends and hingedbetween said slotted ends to the plate D", and provided with scales atthese slotted ends, and the plates DL and D7,connected, respectively, tothe said slotted upper and lower ends of said plate D, substantially asand for the purposes set forth.

l0. An adjustable pattern for the sleeve, substantially as described,comprising adjustable plates for drafting both the upper and underparts, e' and c2, of the sleeve, and said plates provided, substantiallyas described,

with dierential scales e, e, c5, and e,wl1ere' by the addition to andsubtraction from the width of said pieces may be made without changingthe size of sleeve, as set forth.

11. An adjustable sleeve-pattern comprising the sliding plhates at theWrist for controlling and adjusting the wrist-measure, the slidingplates at the elbow for controlling and adjusting the elbown1easure, thesliding plates Em and E, for controlling and adjusting the measure atthe armhole, the sliding plates E and E, for controlling and adjustingthe measure from armhole to elbow, the sliding plates for drafting theinner and outer curves of the sleeve, substantially as described, andthe curved sliding plates for drafting the armholecurves, substantiallyas described.

l2. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination, with theplates E, E, E), E, E?, Et, and E, arranged substantially as described,of the plates E, E, WS, and El, for marking the exterior edge of theupper piece, c', and the plates E2, E, Eand El, for1narking the exterioredge ofthe lower piece, ci, all arranged' substantially as set forth.

13. In au adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination, with theplates E7, El, E, and E", of the plates E, E, and E21, for forming theconvex armhole-curve, all arranged and connected substantially as setforth.

14. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination, with theplates E", E, E, EN, E, and E, of the plates El and E2, and the slottedcurved plate E", hinged to E?" and having` a slotted connection with E,substanstantially as and for the purposes set forth.

l5. In an adjustable pattern for the sleeve, the combination oftheseveral plates E', E, E3, E4 EI li ES 1G10 jll7 E12, llir E14, E157 E22Ef", E, Ei", and El, all arranged and connected substantially as setforth, for use in drafting the piece c2, as described.

16. In an adjusting pattern for the sleeve, the combination of theseveral plates E', E, E3, :El7 14110, $11. E12 Elfi, Ell, Elfi Elfi,El?, EN, Eli), El, E", E2", and E, all arranged and connectedsubstantially as set forth,for use in drafting the piece e', asdescribed.

17. In an adj ust-able pattern for the sleeve,

IOC

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the combination 0f the several plates E E2 at In Witness whereof I havehereunto signed .ro the Wrist, E'E at the elbow, El0 E11 at the my namein the presence of two subscribing armhole, E12 E15 EIIL EN at theinside of the witnesses.

arm, EG E17 from Wrist to elbow outside, E5 E'i from armhole to elbowoutside, Eg E20 El1 eon- ALBERT MQDOWELL. Vex curve at ar'mhole, and E,E23, and E2 concave Curve at armhole, all arranged sub- Vitnesses:

stanbially as shown, whereby the sleeve may HENRY CONNETT,

be drafted oftwo like-sized pieces, as Set fort-h. G-EO. BAINTON.

